• Dialog identitar în lumea modei și frumuseții interbelice: Paris-București / Identity Dialogue in the World of Interwar Fashion and Beauty: Paris-Bucharest

    Author(s):
    Sonia D. Andras (see profile)
    Date:
    2018
    Group(s):
    Cultural Studies, Gender Studies, Global & Transnational Studies, History
    Subject(s):
    Fashion--Study and teaching, Romania, France--Paris, Culture--Study and teaching, Fashion
    Item Type:
    Book chapter
    Tag(s):
    interwar Bucharest, Beauty, Fashion studies, Gender, Paris, Cultural studies
    Permanent URL:
    https://doi.org/10.17613/4vqy-6d59
    Abstract:
    This paper proposes a journey between Bucharest viewed as Little Paris and the original Paris, to determine the way in which the two capitals communicated with each other, whether it was based on dynamic interactions, beyond a simplistic Parisian dialogue. I will interpret Little Paris as an identity construction, clearly mirrored in the universe created on fashionable boulevards like Calea Victoriei, integrated into the national and international contexts. Furthermore, I will analyse the women’s fashion in interwar Bucharest as a reflection of economic, political and social realities within Romania in its relationship with both modernity and tradition. I will also utilize nationally and locally spread publications originating from Bucharest, through articles, ads and images offering information about the Romanian capital’s social life, as well as the conceptual, stylistic and commercial influence exercised by Paris. I will present the special case of the Miss Romania beauty pageants between 1929 and the late 1930s for a clear manifestation of the way in which social selection and beauty theories were implemented through such events, yet at the same time offering a means of increasing Romania’s international prestige for promoters of modernity in Bucharest, especially connected to the idea of the so-called “new woman.” Moreover, I will provide relevant examples from the cultural and artistic world, dividing the French context, with Sonia Delaunay and her connection with Tristan Tzara and especially with Lizica Codreanu with her own links to Constantin Brâncuși, and for the Romanian context I will use the relationships between Romanian fashion icons and noted couturiers, namely Princess Marthe Bibesco and Coco Chanel, Alice Cocea and Cristobal Balenciaga, and Elvire Popesco and Marcelle Dormoy. Keywords: interwar, Bucharest, fashion, gender, beauty, style, Romania
    Metadata:
    Published as:
    Book chapter    
    Status:
    Published
    Last Updated:
    1 year ago
    License:
    All Rights Reserved
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